Jeju Island and the Search for the Sea Women

Postcards from Asia, Part 7

Dear friends,

I had one goal in going to Jeju Island, South Korea: Meet the Sea Women.

I started diving a year ago, and it’s become my favorite way to slow down and be fully present in my surroundings. When I learned about the Haenyeo, women free divers who catch seafood without oxygen, I was entranced. Here were women, aged 50 to 80, diving to depths of 65 feet (20m) in chilly December, upholding a tradition dating back to the 17th century.

Haenyeo culture was born of necessity. Originally, men and women dove together; men were called “pojak” while women were “jamnyeo.” However, a large number of men lost their lives fishing or went to war. This, coupled with a government tax on men’s earnings, pushed women to become the main breadwinners for their families.

Girls start training around the age of 10, sometimes younger, as they catch sea urchins, abalone, and sea cucumbers, unaided by oxygen tanks.

An impromptu seaside restaurant when the tide is low at Yongmeori Coast.

Free diving is not as effortless as the professionals make it look. What was once a method of survival has become an international sport with competitions held around the world. And, with free diving, comes fatalities. The practice can be dangerous and lead to injuries, and Haenyeo risk their lives every time they dive. It can be difficult work that sometimes has the women spending up to seven hours in the sea.

A Haenyeo diver preparing her nets to dive.

Due to the challenges, the Haenyeo way of life is slowly fading. Many women are in their later years and retiring, and there’s less incentive for younger people to take on demanding, dangerous work. A recent documentary on Apple TV goes as far as to label the current generation of Haenyeo as the “The Last of the Sea Women.”

Haenyeo, or women who work with them, will sell sashimi-style meals of their fresh catch at Yongmeori Coast.

However, work is being done to preserve and celebrate Haenyeo heritage. I was able to see the Haenyeo dive show at Seongsan Ilchulbong and taste a fresh-caught feast at Yongmeori Coast. I was thankful to see these professionals in their element during the dive show. Even though it was part of a performance for visitors, the Haenyeo were still going about their professional work like normal.

Haenyeo searching for shellfish during their dive show at Seongsan Ilchulbong.

In 2016, UNESCO declared the Haenyeo of Jeju Island, part of the “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.” According to the global organization, Haenyeo culture contributed to “the advancement of women’s status in the community and promoted environmental sustainability with its eco-friendly methods and community involvement in management of fishing practices.”

Haenyeo dive up to depths of 20m to catch fresh shellfish, abalones, and sea cucumbers.

The women have been gracious with visitors, going as far as to collaborate with the local Jeju Tourism Organization to create Haenyeo experiences, which allow visitors to experience firsthand a day-in-the-life of a free diver. The island also has a Jeju Haenyeo Museum, where people can learn more about the history of a diving culture that dates back centuries.

Seongsan Ilchulbong is the site of the Haenyeo free diving show which happens daily, weather permitting.

Seeing these dive professionals in action was a highlight of my time in Jeju Island and South Korea. I’m not sure what the future will hold as women seek better, safer opportunities for themselves and their families. However, I’m grateful to today’s Haenyeo as they let visitors experience a hint of the heritage and magic of free diving.

The Haenyeo are a beloved national culture, and it’s popular to see little statues, figurines, and dolls representing them around Jeju Island.