Last Stop: Singapore!

Postcards from Asia, Part 25

Dear friends,

Malaysia has mind and soul, and Indonesia has nerves and guts. But, Singapore has imagination. It holds a feeling of futurism while acknowledging the importance of its past.

The magic of travel was rekindled in Singapore. Although it’s an expensive city, it makes up for it in public infrastructure and walkability.

This is the most pedestrian-friendly country I’ve been to so far. I know this has to do with size, priorities, and resources, but I wish US cities would take a page from Singapore’s book.

There’s an abundance of free entertainment options for families: world-class light shows, orchestras giving harborside performances, short film screenings... I avoided spending too much the first few days by simply wandering around and looking for free, interesting events.

Singapore has a lot going for it as an international destination. Is it a bit bougie compared to other places in Southeast Asia? Yes, but also, I respect that the country shows off its wealth in a way that the public can enjoy. If I had lots of money, I might choose Singapore to live and work in. Things cost more, but you get better value for what you pay.

However, there’s a shadow side to every modern city. I spoke with Singaporean friends who told me about the less-than-wonderful aspects of Singaporean society.

For example, wearing a shirt deemed “too political” while protesting genocide could get you slapped with a $600 fine. Salaries aren’t livable for everyone, and many foreign workers must live in neighboring Johor Bahru and commute into the city to afford housing.

Class systems and ethnic tensions exist, like everywhere in the world, and some people note that by sanitizing its reputation, Singapore stands to lose its soul.

As a traveler passing through, I had no valid opinion on these conversations. I could only listen to my friends’ perspectives, check out the museums and botanical gardens, and taste as much hawker center fare as I could get my hands on.

What I did in Singapore

Ate my way around the city at hawker centers, cafés, and coffee shops

Visited world-class museums including the National Museum and ArtScience Museum.

Gazed in awe at the Gardens By the Bay Light Show

Enjoyed free concerts at Esplanade, Theatres by the Bay

Checked out Chinatown, Little India, and Haji Lane

Watched families fly kites on a Sunday afternoon at Marina Barrage

Got food and tea with local friends Nor and Natalie while wandering around the city

Singapore was the last stop on a whirlwind tour of East and Southeast Asia. These regions are a masterpiece of sights, sounds, and flavours, and I feel sad about leaving with so much left to see and experience.

However, I’m also ready to stop moving from hostel to hostel, waiting for delayed buses, and lugging my suitcase up and down stairs.

I’m preparing for a pause, to stay still for the moment, and figure out what to do next. After six months of highs and lows, it’s time to make my way home.

Until next week,

Ash