Solo Traveling in Cusco, Perú

Six Months in South America, Part 11

After almost four months of traveling South America with friends, it was time to leave the familiarity of Brazil and head out on my own. I took a flight from São Paulo to Cusco, Perú, where I would spend the next six weeks. After changing cities every week or two, it felt good to be still for a moment, to sit within one place and focus on my surroundings. 

Cusco had faced its slowest tourism season in recent years, and with many local businesses catered to visitors, people seemed glad to welcome me. However, with any place, there’s always multiple sides to an issue. The Peruvian protest movements had clear and noble goals, at least to my limited, outsider perspective. Like most protests, people were struggling and needed their rights. This kept tourists away, afraid for their safety, but Cusco was the American city where I felt the most secure. As a solo woman traveler, I had zero problems in Perú, and met dozens of kind locals and guides who made my stay meaningful. 

If you want to visit Cusco, some helpful links:

• A Quick Guide to Cusco

• 6 Day Tours from Cusco (that aren’t Machu Picchu)

• How to hike the Short Inca Trail & Machu Picchu Mountain

Acclimating to the altitude

Cusco sits 11,150 ft. (3,400 meters) above sea level, and it generally takes a few days for your body to adjust. To help with the change, you can chew coca leaves or drink muña (Andean mint) tea. Many hostels and hotels will provide the coca leaves, and you can find the tea at restaurants, cafes, and supermarkets throughout the city. Take it slow, go on short hikes around the area, and give your body time to acclimate.

Where I stayed

My friend Stef recommended a group of local, ethical accommodation: CBC Hotels. I had a lovely time in La Casa de Fray Bartolomé and would definitely stay again. The hotel provided a delicious breakfast, and was right next to a bakery, Qosqo Maki Panaderia, and down the street from several restaurants offering the daily menu for 6 soles (less than $2). 

• La Casa de Fray Bartolomé

• Casa Limpacampa

• Casa Campesina

Tour guides and operators

These are the tour guides I personally went with while I was in Cusco. Stay tuned next week, when I interview Shandira from Mother Earth Treks about her experiences as a guide.

• Mother Earth Treks: Shandira is an incredible guide and friend! I 100% recommend reaching out to her about Indigenous-led tour options. 

• Peru Private Tours: Nayda was fantastic and extremely professional. This was one of my favorite tours from Cusco. 

• La Base Lamay: Perseus is wonderful and knowledgeable about the region. He taught me so much about the history of the site we visited and Perú, in general. 

Places to visit around the city:

• Saqsaywaman: A citadel built by the Incas in the 15th century, pay attention to the unbelievable stonework that was carefully cut to fit together without mortar.

• Qorikancha: Found near the city center, this is the site of the most important temple in the Inca Empire. 

• Temple of the Moon: An Inca site on the hills surrounding Cusco, you can ride horses here. If interested, I’ll put you in contact with my friend Saturino about tours.

• Mercado de San Blas: In one of my favorite neighborhoods, the food at this market is incredibly fresh. Try the Machu Picchu sandwich and a jug of refreshing fruit juice. 

• Mercado San Pedro: A larger, more chaotic market than San Blas, you’ll find all sorts of random goods. 

• Tupac Amaru Square: Visit on Saturdays to see the weekly fair that may have concerts, dances, performances, food, plants, and more. 

In Cusco, I was able to slow down and pay clearer attention to the space around me. It would take a lifetime to understand even a square meter of the city, but I was grateful to learn from friends and guides about the history of the Inca, Aymara, and other Indigenous cultures of Perú.

Thanks for reading! Part 12 highlights my interview with Shandira, the amazing force behind Mother Earth Treks in Cusco.